The World of Gemstones

Gem Cutting Styles: A Guide to Popular Facets

The art of gem cutting, or lapidary, transforms rough stones into dazzling gems that capture and reflect light in spectacular ways. The cut of a gemstone not only enhances its natural beauty but also affects its value and suitability for different jewelry settings. Let's explore the most popular cutting styles and their unique characteristics.

Understanding Facets

Facets are the flat, polished surfaces on a cut gemstone. Their arrangement determines how light enters the stone, interacts with its interior, and exits as visible brilliance. A well-executed cut maximizes a gem's color, clarity, and sparkle by optimizing these light paths.

Round Brilliant Cut

The most popular and scientifically optimized cut, featuring 57 or 58 facets arranged in a cone shape. Developed in the early 20th century, this cut maximizes a diamond's brilliance and fire.

Advantages

  • Exceptional brilliance and fire
  • Hides inclusions well
  • Timeless design with broad appeal
  • Most studied and perfected cut

Limitations

  • Significant weight loss from rough stone (often 40-60%)
  • Premium pricing due to popularity
  • May appear smaller than other cuts of same carat weight

Princess Cut

A square or rectangular cut with pointed corners, typically featuring 57-76 facets in a distinct pattern. Created in the 1960s, it has become the second most popular cut for engagement rings.

Advantages

  • Excellent brilliance, close to round brilliant
  • Higher yield from rough stone than round cut
  • Contemporary, geometric appearance
  • Versatile for various jewelry settings

Limitations

  • Vulnerable corners can chip
  • May show color and inclusions more than round cuts
  • Requires careful setting to protect corners

Emerald Cut

A rectangular cut with stepped facets and cropped corners, featuring 50-58 facets. One of the oldest cuts, it emphasizes clarity and elegance over sparkle.

Advantages

  • Creates a "hall of mirrors" effect
  • Elegant, sophisticated appearance
  • Good yield from rough material
  • Less prone to chipping than pointed cuts
  • Often appears larger than similar carat weights

Limitations

  • Shows inclusions and color more readily
  • Less brilliance and fire than brilliant cuts
  • Requires higher clarity grades for best appearance

Cushion Cut

A square or rectangular cut with rounded corners, combining the brilliance of round cuts with a softer shape. Featuring 58 facets, it's a modernized version of the old mine cut.

Advantages

  • Excellent fire and scintillation
  • Vintage appeal with modern brilliance
  • Hides inclusions reasonably well
  • Versatile in various settings

Limitations

  • Less brilliance than round brilliant cut
  • Can appear smaller than same-carat round cuts
  • Wide variation in proportions and appearance

Oval Cut

An elongated version of the round brilliant, typically with 56-58 facets. Developed in the 1960s, it creates an illusion of greater size and can make fingers appear longer.

Advantages

  • Appears larger than round cuts of same carat weight
  • Elongates the hand
  • Nearly as brilliant as round cut
  • No vulnerable sharp corners

Limitations

  • Can display a "bow-tie" effect (dark area across center)
  • Proportions vary widely between stones
  • Requires careful setting to protect from damage

Marquise Cut

An elongated cut with pointed ends, typically featuring 58 facets. Developed in the 18th century for King Louis XV, it maximizes perceived size and elongates the wearer's hand.

Advantages

  • Appears larger than most cuts of same carat weight
  • Elongates the finger dramatically
  • High brilliance
  • Distinctive, eye-catching shape

Limitations

  • Pointed ends vulnerable to chipping
  • Often shows a bow-tie effect
  • Requires careful setting to protect tips
  • Symmetry is critical for beauty

Pear Cut

A hybrid cut combining elements of round and marquise cuts, with one rounded end and one point. Typically features 58 facets and is also known as the teardrop cut.

Advantages

  • Elongates the finger
  • Excellent brilliance
  • Unique, distinctive shape
  • Versatile for various jewelry pieces

Limitations

  • Pointed end susceptible to damage
  • May display bow-tie effect
  • Symmetry crucial for aesthetic appeal
  • Requires protective setting for pointed end

Cabochon

Not a faceted cut but a polished, domed top with a flat or slightly domed base. The oldest gem cutting style, still popular for opaque or asteriated stones.

Advantages

  • Highlights phenomena like asterism or chatoyancy
  • Ideal for opaque or translucent stones
  • Smooth, tactile appeal
  • Less material loss during cutting

Limitations

  • Lacks the brilliance of faceted cuts
  • More susceptible to scratching
  • Less prestigious in fine jewelry

Choosing the Right Cut

When selecting a gemstone cut, consider these factors: